Laminate Flooring Installation Guide:
Lawson Laminate Flooring offers a 25-year Limited Residential Warranty to 50 -year Limited Residential Warranty ( Crown Premium Collection) or a 5-Year Limited Commercial Warranty on the finishing and lifetime structural warranty of all floorboard products. Warranty coverage may be lost due to improper installation, poor jobsite conditions, or the use of improper materials or tools. Please read this installation guide carefully.
This guide is organized into three sections: Preparation, Installation and Cleaning instructions. Before installation any concerns about the milling or grading of this product must be directed to and resolved with the manufacturer. After the product is installed, the customer assumes all responsibility. The manufacturer will not be liable for any costs of product or replacement if issues are not resolved prior to installation.
Be sure you have received the flooring that you ordered before starting the installation. It is always a good idea to store one end label together with your receipt.
More information about Lawson Laminate Flooring can be found on our website at www.LawsonFloors.com
Acclimation: After receiving the flooring it should be acclimated, unopened, prior to installation. We recommend storing it at normal room temperature (minimum 58°F) and a relative humidity of 30% – 60% for a minimum of 48 hours prior to installation.
Lawson Laminate Flooring must be installed on a solid, self-supporting subfloor, wood flooring, concrete flooring.
The entire subfloor must be carefully checked for any unevenness. Using a 1 meter straight edge, make sure that there are no low spots deeper than 1/4 inch. Also make sure that there are no “steps” or “peaks” higher than 1/8 inch within a 12 foot radius. Sand or grind peaks, and use a self-leveling compound as needed to achieve the correct flatness. Ask your dealer for advice.
Carefully vacuum the entire surface. To avoid the risk of squeaking, secure any loose particleboard, OSB, fiberboard, timber planks, etc. with screws.
Always cover the subfloor with 2 mm – 3 mm PE-foam before installing the laminate flooring.
Do not install the floor in a typical wet room or in rooms with a floor drain such as bathrooms or laundry rooms.
Lawson Laminate Flooring is designed to be installed as a floating floor to allow natural expansion and contraction with changes in temperature and humidity. Therefore it must never be fastened to the subfloor in a way that prevents movement, e.g. by using nails or screws, by gluing.
Very heavy loads may prevent the installed floor from moving as temperature and humidity change. Heavy equipment such as a kitchen island with a ceramic or marble worktop, heavy storage shelves, etc. should not be placed directly on the floor.
A vapor barrier must be used when installing Lawson Laminate Flooring on mineral subfloors such as concrete, leveling compound, etc. Always use a 6 mm PE-film as a minimum for all mineral subfloors, regardless of the story you are installing on or the age of the building.
Lawson Laminate Flooring is not suitable for use together with underfloor heating systems This will cause damage to the floor that will not covered by Lawson’s warranty.
Because Lawson flooring is made from organic materials, your floor will naturally expand and contract as the temperature and relative humidity change. The ideal indoor environment is 40% – 60% RH, which results in almost no movement whatsoever. Lawson Laminate Flooring is known to work very well in the range of 30% – 50% RH provided some important rules are followed during installation. When installing in a dry climate, leave an expansion gap of 3/16 inch between the edge of the floor and any walls, thresholds, pipes or fixed objects. When installing in a humid climate or area, leave a gap of at least 3/8 inch. The gap is to ensure that the floor may move as expected from season to season, and is not to be filled with any sealant, silicon or other adhesive. Never fasten the floor with screws, nails, glue or in any other way.
Due to its organic content, Lawson flooring will naturally expand and contract. The amount of movement for an installed floor will be about the same in both directions. The recommended maximum floor size is 30 ft. x 30 ft. in a rectangular room before you will need to install transition molding.
If the area to be covered is larger than the recommended 30 ft. x 30 ft., or if the room has angles or similar features, transition molding will be required. When using transition molding, it is important to leave an expansion gap between the metal track and the edge of the floor planks. A 3/16 inch gap on each side of the track is recommended for a dry climate, and 3/8 inch for a humid climate. Never glue the molding to the flooring.
Lawson Laminate Flooring is easy to install and requires no expensive specialty tools. In addition to a few common DIY tools (folding rule, pencil, hammer, handsaw or jigsaw, square and possibly a power drill), you only need a tapping block, pull bar and spacers.
Lawson Laminate Flooring has a very durable and hard-wearing surface that can cause considerable wear on cutting tools. To avoid chipping, turn each plank’s decorative surface face up when using a hand saw, and face down when using a jigsaw.
Sometimes, planks can get damaged during transportation or when boxes are opened. To avoid installing a plank with a damaged surface, edge or click joint, carefully inspect each plank before beginning installation.
Carefully measure the length and the width of the room so that you can plan the precise layout for achieving a balanced appearance. This is to ensure that you won’t end up with the last row being too narrow. Plan to start at the wall with the most doors or openings, as it is always easier to end at a wall with no doors.
Generally, you should measure the width of the room and divide that by the width of the exposed face of the plank. If the last row will be less than 40 mm wide, installation will be easier if you cut the width of the first row of planks instead.
Likewise, divide the length of the room by the length of the exposed face of the plank. If the last plank will end up being very short, we recommend cutting several inches off the first plank to simplify installation. You should also stagger the end joints by 1/2 or 1/3 the plank length, or at least 12 inches.
If the project requires any sound-blocking underlayment and/or moisture protection, now is the time to install it. When that is done, begin installing your laminate flooring by starting at first row planks to follow the contour of the wall, or to avoid the last row from being too narrow, make sure that the part of the plank you remove is along the side with the tongue. When cutting, avoid chipping by turning the decorative surface face up when using a handsaw, and face down when using a jigsaw.
It is imperative the first few rows be straight. After preparing the first plank, place it on the floor with the cut edge facing the starting wall, and the groove facing into the room. Use spacers along both the short and long sides to create the recommended expansion gap between the walls and the plank. Connect the next plank by pushing it down at the end joint. Make sure the planks are perfectly aligned and insert the necessary spacers between the plank and wall before continuing with the next plank.
Continue installing and aligning all the planks in the first row. You will need to cut the last plank to the required length, leaving the recommended space for expansion at the end. Save the leftover section of plank for possibly starting the second row. Remember to insert spacers between the walls and planks.
Begin the second row with a shortened plank to stagger the end joints by at least 8 inches. We recommend staggering by either 1/3 or 1/2 plank length depending on the format. Usually you can use the cut piece left over from the first row. If this provides too short an overlap, you can cut it to the appropriate length, or save it to start another row, and cut a new plank instead.
To disassemble an end joint, never lift it up. Lifting will damage the click mechanism. The only safe way to disassemble planks at the end joint is to slide them apart horizontally. Never hit the laminate board directly. Instead, use a tapping block & rubber mallet.
The easiest way to connect planks at the long side joint is simply to place the connecting plank flat on the floor and slide it toward the installed row until the tongue meets the groove.
Then lift the plank up to an angle of about 30 degrees and push the tongue into the groove. Wiggle the plank up and down a bit while pushing it into the groove and down towards the subfloor. You will hear a slight click. Carefully check the tightness of the joint. If necessary, secure the joint by gently tapping it with the tapping block.
To disassemble a plank, never lift at the end joint, as this will destroy the joint. First lift and disconnect the entire row (as one piece) from the previous row at the long side joint. Then slide each plank apart at the end joint horizontally.
To connect the end joint, place the connecting plank flat on the floor, slide the long joint (tongue) towards the groove of the installed row, and lift so that the tongue enters the groove. Hold the plank at an angle of about 30 degrees from the floor and gently slide it to the left until it meets the end of the previous plank.
Then lightly wiggle the plank up and down while gently pushing it into the groove of the installed row and down towards the subfloor. You must always check the tightness and evenness from plank to plank. Just press your thumb on the end of the most recently installed plank and push down to secure a perfect connection.
For a nice finish where the new flooring meets a threshold, we recommend undercutting the door frame & simply sliding the plank under the frame when installing the floor.
Normally planks are installed parallel to the room’s longest walls. If one of these has doorways, starting from this wall will make installation easier.
For the final row, cut the planks to the proper width. Remember to leave the recommended expansion space and making any necessary adjustments to follow the contour of the wall. If there is a doorway in this wall, slide the plank underneath the undercut door frame first, then slide it towards the previously installed plank. Push down on the end joint to lock the ends of the planks together.
To lock the long side of the plank to the previous row, use a pull bar. Position the bar between the wall and the plank, and then carefully tap the bar as shown while moving it sideways along the length of the plank.
To install flooring around pipes, carefully measure and mark the plank with the exact centre point for each pipe. Drill a hole at each of the marked points that is equivalent to the diameter of the pipe + 1/4 inch.
- If located on the long side of the plank, make a 45 degree cut from each hole to the edge of the plank and then cut between the holes as shown.
- If located at the end of the plank, make a straight cut across the plank intersecting the centre of the holes.
Install the plank. Then, using regular glue along the cut edges of the piece you cut out, glue the piece to the plank where it belongs. Make sure no glue comes between the cut piece and the subfloor. The gaps around the pipes are to ensure that the floor may move as expected from season to season, and should not be filled with any sealant, silicon or other adhesive.
Inspect the surface of the installed floor, remove all spacers and install wall baseboards ( or base shoe ) to cover the gap between the floor & wall.
If laminate flooring is installed on a stairway, urethane-base wood floor adhesive should be used. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions.
Vacuum clean (without the rotating brush betting bar), dry mop, or sweep the floor to remove dirt and dust. Occasionally wipe the floor with microfiber mop cloth moistened with an appropriate cleaning solution. Do NOT use water to clean laminate floor.
We also recommend using protective felt pads under furniture legs to avoid scratching the surface.
ENGINEERED HARDWOOD FLOORING INSTALLATION GUIDES:
A. INSTALLER/OWNER RESPONSIBILITY – IMPORTANT
Inspect all flooring material carefully for correct product and visible defects BEFORE INSTALLALATION.
Warranties do not cover visible defects once they are installed. (Based on industry standards a defect/irregular
tolerance of up to 5% is allowed).
As all wood is unique, with no two pieces alike, review and compare the new flooring with the “sample board”
from which the floor was selected to ensure it meets the homeowners expecations prior to the installation. If
flooring is not acceptable, contact your distributor immediately and arrange for replacement.
It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to ensure subfloor and jobsite conditions are environmentally and
structurally acceptable for wood floor installation. Problems or failures related to deficiencies in subfloor or
job site damage after installation are not covered by our warranty.
* Receive the floor and make sure it meets owners expectations.
* Grade out and separate any pieces with visible defectsirregularities.
* Test the subfloor and jobsite itself inlcuding ambient temperaturerelative humidity and all other
variables that may adversly affect a wood floor.
* Record the flooring moisture content upon delivery and at time of installation- RETAIN THESE RECORDS
* Acclimate flooring to appropriate site conditions Follow NWFA Installation Guidelines for Acclimation
on Jobsite (Section I, Chapter 2)
* Record and retain a permanent job record
IMPORTANT: LAWSON ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING are designed to perform within a typical residential environment.
Wood installed in areas where relative humidity is below may cup and shrink humidifier may be necessary to
keep the relative humidity within recommended levels of to year round looring installed on wet subfloors may
crown and buckle.
CORRECT ANY OVERLY DRY OR WET CONDITIONS BEFORE INSTALLATION
B. PRE INSTALLATION/JOBSITE REQUIREMENTS
ACCLIMATION IS CRITICAL
Allow floors to accclimate to the appropriate jobsite conditions.
Proper acclimation is particularly important
in extremely dry climates eg tah rizona evada daho olorado See NWFA Installation Guidelines,
Section I, Chapter 2 for more acclimation details.
Upon delivery check wood flooring moisture content (MC) with a moisture meter to establish a baseline for
required acclimation. Record MC at time of delivery AND at time of installation.
Out of the box acclimation is the most effective and recommended by Lawson Floors. If outofbox acclimation
is not possible open boxes at both ends to allow air to circulate through planks f planks are covered with
plastic wrap cut plastic at both ends to allow for proper air circulation allow planks to lay flat for a
minimum of days or as long as necessary for the planks to meet the job site moisture conditions. Use a
moisture meter to monitor the flooring and jobsite conditions as they acclimate.
Room temperature and humidity of installation areas should be consistent with normal yearround living
conditions for at least ONE WEEK before installation of wood flooring. Room temperatures of 60F to 80F
and a humidity range of to should be maintained year-round.
The moisture content (MC)of hardwood should generally be between 6% TO 9%. If plywood is used for
subfloor the MC should be no more than 2% between Lawson Engineered Wood Flooring and plywood subfloor.
HANDLING AND STORAGE
Hardwood flooring should be one of the last items installed on any new construction or remodel project. All
work invlolving water or moisture should be completed before installation of flooring.
Do not deliver wood flooring to the job site until the building is entirely closed and until appropriate
temperature and humidity conditions have been acheived ppropriate temperature and humidity conditions
are defined as those conditions to be experienced in the building after occumpancy.
HVAC should be in operation before and during installation refer to NWFA Installation Guidelines Section I,
Chapter 1, Part 1 for further information.Room temperature and humidity of installation areas should be
consistent with normal yearround living conditions for at least ONE WEEK before installation of wood
flooring.Room temperatures of 60-80F and a humidity range of 30%-50% is recommended yearround.
KEEP FLOORING DRY: Protect flooring from moisture during storage and transportation.Store material
in a flat dry and totally enclosed area arages exterior patios for example are not acceptable areas to store
wood flooring he moisture content (MC) of hardwood should generally be between 6 to 9%. For wide
width flooring(3 ¼ or wider there should be no more than difference in moisture content between
properly acclimated wood flooring and wood subfloor.
C. SUBFLOOR TYPES AND CONDITIONS
Types: Refer to NWFA Installation Guidelines, Section II for Subfloor Information
* CD: Exposure 1 plywood minimum ¾ thick
* Solid board 1 x 6″ wide square edge kiln dried
* OSB: Exposure 1 (minium 3/4″ thick)
* Concrete efer to NWFA Installation Guidelines, Section II, Chapter 5 & 6
The subfloor must be clean dry and flat to within 3/16″ per 10′
radius. If necessary sand or plane high spots
and fill low areas using a cement based patchingleveling compound ecure any loose boards or panels to
prevent squeaking he surface temperature of the subfloor at time of installation should be at least 59°F but
never exceed 80°F.
Damage due to moisture isssues is not a product failure and is not covered by our warranty.
BASEMENT AND CRAWL SPACES: Keep dry and ventilated rawl spaces must be a minimum of 18″
from ground to underside of joists. Exposed earth should be fully covered by a minimum 6 mil black
polyethylene vapor barrier with joints overlapped and sealed with a moisture resistant tape.
CONCRETE SUBFLOOR: New concrete should be completely cured for at least 50-60 days. Test for
excessive moisture reading of over 3lbs /1000 sq ft by Calcium Chloride test requires the application of a
Ensure concrete has a minimum of 3000 PSIcompression.
Over a lightweight concrete (less than 3000 PSI) use a floating installation o check for lightweight concrete
draw a nail across the top f it scratches or indents it is probably a lightweight concrete.
WOOD SUBFLOOR: When floating over a wood subfloor cover wall to wall with an underlayment
overlapped 8″ at seams follow underlayment manufacturing instructions t is recommended to tape
overlapped edges with a cellophane tape o prepare wood subfloor for installation renail any loose areas to
prevent squeaking and or plane high spots and fill low areas.
The moisture content (MC)of a wood subfloor should not exceed 12%. In general the moisture content of
hardwood flooring is between 6% and 9% and the MC difference between the subfloor and flooring should
not exceed 2% on a 3 ¼ or wider flooring.
Prior to installation over radiant heat systems it is important to refer to the NWFA Installation Guidelines
Section IV. Appendix H. Failure to follow these guidelines can void your warranty and may produce
unsatisfactory results. Use only over water-heated systems, not recommended over eletrically heated systems.
Radiant Heat Subfloors can be concrete, wood or a combination of both.
e type of subfloor determines the subfloor preparation.
If the Radiant Heat subfloor is concrete the system should be fully operating at a normal temperature for a
minimum of 21 days prior to floor installation, to dry out residual moisture.
e system MUST then be turned off 24 hours prior to installation and must remain off for 24 hours after
installation so that the adhesive does not cure excessively fast. After the 24 hours, the system temperature can
be gradually raised again (over a 7 day period) up to the desired level.
e maximimum allowable subfloor surface temperature over radiant heat is 85F.
Radiant heat is a dry heat. A humidification system is recommended to maintain wood flooring in its
comfort zone. Surface checking, excessive gapping, etc. can be expected if the proper humidity level is not
maintained between 30-50% year round, or the surface temperature exceeds 85F.
To minimize the effect that rapid change in temperature will have on the moisture content of the wood floor,
an outside thermostat is recommended.
e following installation methods can be used over radiant heated floors:
FLOATING (RECOMMENDED) – See Floating Method on reverse
Install over approved subfloor. A minimum 6 mil poly vapor retarder should be used over a concrete subfloor.
In some cases, this may be part of the flooring underlayment . A foam or resilient approved underlayment
must be installed prior to installation of wood flooring. Use Dri-Tac 8100 or Titebond T&G glue for
GLUE DOWN – See Glue Down Method on reverse
Use over a approved subfloor. Use only approved adhesives.
STAPLE / NAIL DOWN: See Staple/Nail Down Method on reverse
Install over approved subfloor. Be sure fasteners are not so long as to penetrate the heat source.
D. GENERAL INSTALLATION:
REFER TO NWFA INSTALLATION GUIDELINES, SECTION III, CHAPTER 9
Urban Lifestyle, Mountain Country, and Welcome Home can be installed above, on-grade or below-grade.
Installation methods can be either: Direct Glue, Floating or Nail/Staple.
Plan the layout: “Rack” out (dry-lay) the flooring before installing to avoid close end joints and to blend
color and grain patterns. To blend the visual differences from board to board it is recommended to work
from several cartons alternatively. Leave ” gap at all vertical objects, undercut all door jams
GLUE DOWN METHOD
Lawson Engineered Floors recommends Simple Spread urethane adhesive, for the installation of our
products. Carefully read and follow the instructions provided by the adhesive manufacturers for the use and
application of their product. Use the trowel size recommended by the glue manufacturer. Check with your
flooring retailer for other adhesives and sealers that are compatible with engineered floors.
Adhesive that is allowed to dry on the plank surface can be difficult to remove and may leave a haze. Be sure
to clean any surplus adhesive off surface of plank as you go. Use a Urethan Adhesive remover for this purpose.
e first step is to find a starting line from the wall the width of 2 or 3 boards plus a ” expansion space.
Nail or fasten a holding board, i.e. 1” x 2’ (1-inch x 2 feet) or 1” x 4’ (1-inch by 4-feet) length of straight
wood along the line, this will help keep the first rows straight and firmly in place. Apply the adhesive to the
subfloor and place the first plank down up against the holding board with the groove side facing the wall.
Continue laying the first row using the tongue and groove method. Tighten all joints by the use of a wooden
or plastic tapping block and soft mallet. Gently knock the boards in from the tongue side. Never use a
hammer directly on the plank as this can cause damage to the finish. Use a pull-bar to pull the last row into
place and tighten joints. Remember to clean surplus adhesive as you work. Continue laying the second
row, staggering end joints of boards from row-to-row a minimum of 8”-10“ apart. If necessary use blue
installers tape to maintain a tight floor. Repeat row-by-row using the same method until the entire section is
complete. Remove the holding boards and complete the area from the starting boards to the wall.
COMPLETING THE JOB: Roll every 2 to 3 hours and on completion with a 100lb. to 150lb. roller to
ensure all planks are flat and in contact with the adhesive. Remove blue installers tape within 3 hours.
Remove any spacer wedges. Cover all expansion spaces along walls with Urbanfloor coordinated moldings.
Always nail moldings to the adjacent wall, not the flooring! Clean, sweep, and vacuum installed flooring
When choosing the floating method for engineered wood, it is critical that the subfloor is flat to within ⁄”
per 10’ radius. Urbanfloor will not honor warranty claims for products damaged due to plank movement or
flexing due to an uneven floor. (See Section C: Suboor Types and Condition, reverse page).
For floating installation, a 6 mil., age-resistant polyethylene plastic sheet is required as a moisture barrier. Lap
up walls 4”. It is also required that a 15lb. asphalt saturated felt (rag paper) be used as an underlayment above
the moisture barrier to reduce sound. You can also use a 2 in 1 product that incorporates both a moisture
barrier and sound barrier in ONE sheet, e.g. Volara foam ¼” or Floor Muffler products. Follow
underlayment manufacturer’s instructions.
Install cushioning underlayment running same lengthwise direction that you plan to install the flooring.
Decide which direction the flooring will run. Starting from left to right across the floor, begin by snapping a
chalk line the width of the plank (e.g. 5”) plus the ” expansion space, off the starting wall. Nail a series of
holding boards (i.e. 1” x 4” lengthss of wood) along the chalk line, this will help keep the first rows straight
and firmly in place. Lay the first plank and align with chalk line, up against the holding boards with groove
side facing the wall. Take second plank and apply a tongue and groove wood adhesive i.e. Dri-Tac 8100 glue
or T&G glue made for flooring (follow adhesive manufacturer’s instructions) to the groove on boards end, and
join to first plank. Continue same steps until first row is completed. When reaching the end of the first row,
cut the last board to fit; use spacing wedges to maintain a ” expansion space between wall and end of plank.
Make sure all end joints are tight and square. Remember to clean adhesive as you work. Begin the second
row by cutting board – if necessary – to ensure a staggered end joint of approximately 8”-10“ between end
joints of adjacent planks. Apply tongue and groove adhesives to end and side grooves; join to first row, repeat
until second row is complete. e floor can be installed in successive rows or with a stair-step approach. e
stair-step approach ensures a tighter fit for the first few rows and limits board separation during the initial
set-up. Always use a random pattern to begin installation. Tighten all joints by the use of a wooden tapping
block to gently knock the boards in from the tongue side. Do not use excessive force and never use hammer
directly on the plank. Use special pull bar to tighten joints from the sides. Use clamps or blue installers tape
to hold joints together (remove blue tape within 3 hours and remove any tape adhesive residue). e last row
may need cutting lengthwise to fit (remember to allow expansion space). Use a pull-bar to pull last row in
place and tighten joints. Use spacing wedges to maintain the space.
COMPLETING THE JOB: Allow finished floor to be free of traffic for a minimum of 8 hours and before
spacing wedges are removed. Be sure all expansion spaces are covered with appropriate moldings. Always nail
moldings to the adjacent wall, not the flooring! Never attach any molding to a floating floor. Clean, sweep,
and vacuum installed flooring before use.
STAPLE/NAIL DOWN METHOD
Carefully remove any baseboard trim around the perimeter of room. Save for replacement after floor is
installed. Cover wood subfloor wall to wall with the vapor retarder or 15 lb. asphalt saturated felt.
Overlapped 4” at seams. is will not only retard moisture, but may help prevents squeaks. Snap a working
line along the longest continuous wall allowing ” expansion space. Direction of the planks should be at
right angles to the joists for highest strength of flooring. Lay one row of planks along the entire length with
groove facing the wall. If necessary, use spacing wedges to maintain expansion space. Top nail the first row,
placing nails perpendicular to the surface as close as possible to the wall so that after completion the head of
the nail will be hidden by the base molding. Blind nail the other side of the plank through the tongue (use 1
½“ length nails with a ¾” ply subfloor) with the nail slightly inclined and the head driven flush. Staples
should be placed 3“ to 4” apart and cleats every 4“ to 6” apart. All fasteners should be placed 1“ to 2” of end
joints. Hand nail the first row if necessary, then a nailing machine can be used. Start second row in the same
manner. If necessary, cut the first board to stagger end joints of boards a minimum of 16” from row-to-row.
From second row onward nailing is done on the tongue side only. Use a tapping block or soft-head mallet to
engage tongue & groove. A hard-head mallet can damage the milling of the plank. e last row usually
requires cutting the plank lengthwise to fit the space (remember to maintain the expansion gap). Nail the last
row in the same manner as the first.
COMPLETING THE JOB: Once the nailing is complete, remove any spacing wedges and install the base
molding. Always nail moldings to the adjacent wall, not the flooring! Clean, sweep and vacuum installed
flooring before use.
Stapled or nailed-down products are not warrantied against squeaking or popping sounds.
TOOLS: Some standard tools you may need include: Tape Measure, Wooden Tapping Block, Rubber Mallet,
Power Saw, Blue Painters Tape, Wood or Plastic Spacers, Pry Bar, and Chalk Line.
FOR STAPLE/NAIL DOWN: Air-Stapler/Nailer with appropriate nail down adapter. Use a prefinishedNOTES: For areas larger than 20’ x 20’, more spacing between rows may be needed depending on geographical
area, site environment and time of year. (Refer to NWFA Installation Guidelines, Section III, Chapter 9).
Seasonal gaps can be expected, especially on wider planks. is is normal and not a defect.
After installation it is important to maintain the environmental conditions in the home within the ranges
outlined in these instructions (see PRE-INSTALLATION/JOBSITE REQUIREMENT, 1st page: Section B).
Failure to keep the humidity and temperature within the recommended ranges can result in damage to
E. CARE & MAINTENANCE
e Lawson Engineered wood flooring are a high quality, natural wood
engineered flooring with a urethane surface finish.
*Lawson Engineered Wood Flooring recommends Bona® cleaning products. Bona (also known as BonaKemi®) is widely regarded as the best
cleaning solution available. Visit their website: www.mybonahome.com to nd out more about their products.
All purpose cleaners are not recommended as they can dull your floor’s finish or leave a hazy residue.
Today’s hardwood floors are quick and easy to maintain; and with a little preventative maintenance, can look
beautiful for years to come. All hardwood floors should be cleaned regularly. Simply sweep, dust mop, or
vacuum to remove grit and dirt. When necessary, clean floor with Bona® hardwood floor cleaning product
(carefully follow Bona cleaning instructions). Avoid using a wet mop as over time this can damage the finish.
Remember: water and wood do not mix.
• Sweep, vacuum, or dust mop regularly.
• Immediately wipe up liquid spills with cloth or paper towels.
• Maintain with Bona® hardwood floor cleaner for un-waxed/un-oiled finishes.
• Use felt protectors or furniture coasters under heavy furniture.
• Close curtains or blinds to limit direct sun exposure.
• Maintain room temperature (60-80°F).
• Maintain relative humidity in room/building between 30-50% year-round.
• Caster wheeled chairs should have wide casters.
• A protective mat should be placed under office chairs.
• In areas with icy or snowy winters, extra protection against salt and grit may be needed.
• Place mats and throw rugs at doorways, exteriors and interiors to help prevent the tracking of grit, dirt,
• Remember that cleats, sports shoes and high heels can dent any floor surface.
• Place an area rug in front of the kitchen sink to catch water.
• Use oil base soaps.
• Use paste wax based products (NEVER wax a urethane finished floor).
• Drag sharp wooden legs or metal furniture legs as it can scratch/dent hardwood floors.
• Expose to direct sunlight for extended periods of time as it may dry/fade natural wood.
• Use steam cleaners. They are not recommended for use on natural wood flooring.
• Place porous flower pots or vases on the floor.
• Use steel wool or scourers.
• Move heavy furniture without protecting wood flooring by slipping a piece of cloth or pile under the legs
or bottom of items.
• Wet-mop a wood floor. Standing water can dull the finish, damage the wood, and leave a discoloring
COLOR CHANGE: Normal exposure to sunlight, heat, air conditioners, etc. will bring about natural changes
in the original color as the floor ages. If possible, use blinds or drapes to protect floor from excessive sunlight.
when some areas of the floor are covered, as in large furniture pieces and area rugs, the change under these pieces
can be lighter than the surrounding floor, as they are not exposed to the same conditions. is is normal and is
not a defect. Rotating the position of area rugs and furniture from time to time will allow the covered areas to
slowly adjust in color to the surrounding floor.
SURFACE CHECKS: During the winter months of low humidity, minor surface cracks (checks) may appear in
wood flooring, then often close up again in the summer months when the humidity is higher. is is a normal
characteristic of natural wood and not a basis of a complaint against the manufacturer, especially if there is no
structural failure. To minimize checking, follow the guidelines for maintaining the environment in the home on
SEASONAL GAPS: Seasonal gapping can be expected, especially on wider planks. is is normal and not a
defect. roughout it’s life wood will naturally expand and contract in response to the wet and dry seasons and
also from the environmental conditions in the home. To keep these dimensional changes to a minimum,
maintain the home temperature and relative humidity within the range outlined in Section B, Pre-installation/Job
DISCLAIMER: Lawson Engineered Wood Flooring is not related or affiliated with Bona USA, Inc. and does not gain monetary benefit
by referring Bona products. Recommendations are voluntary and solely based on our own experience.